21 Days of Covid-19 in China

Many of you have messaged asked what it’s like living in Shanghai at the moment, three weeks after the Coronavirus outbreak hit media headlines.

It’s hard to describe the stark contrast to anyone who hasn’t experienced the hectic bustle of Shanghai in full flight. Her vibrancy is the reason I fell in love with this city. However, now she is eerily quiet, and her streets resemble post-apocalyptic empty.

Although there was no announcement made, the city is effectively in lockdown. By order of the government, people aren’t allowed to return to work. Businesses remain shut. Many people who left for the Chinese New Year holiday are unable to return due to flight cancellations and lockdowns in other provinces.

To give some context to the photos I’ve shared below, we live in Jing’an, which is one of Shanghai’s central districts. Packed with upscale malls, restaurants, cafes, bars, and historical sights, the streets are usually a bustling mixing pot of locals, ex-pats, and tourists.

According to the Shanghai Municipal Council’s population density study conducted in 2017, the population of Jing’an was 1,066,620 in an area of 36.88sqkm, which is a mindboggling 28,910 people per square meter. So to leave the house and see so few people in the streets is surreal.

Last week, Liv and I escaped the confines of our apartment and ventured out to meet a friend for coffee. We planned to meet at our usual coffee spot, Baker & Spice, but we found it closed. As we continued walking, we soon realized all the coffee shops were closed and finding a coffee was going to be a mission. We were about to give up when we noticed someone carrying a Starbucks cup. Sweet relief, caffeine was within reach.

Upon our arrival at Starbucks, and before we could enter, a masked employee measured our temperature and dispensed a squirt of hand sanitizer into each of our hands. It seemed strange but oddly comforting they were taking these measures.

This week, people started noticing heightened levels of security coming into force across Shanghai.

The guards in our apartment compound implemented increased security measures by limiting access to residents only. No more ordering take-out in our pajamas! This measure has meant we now have to walk down to the guardhouse at the front gates to pick up our grocery, take-out, wine, and mail deliveries. If we leave the compound, the guards check our temperature when we return, and I have even heard some compounds in Shanghai have enforced curfews between 12 pm and 6 am.

As of Saturday, 8th February, and until further notice, it is mandatory for everyone to wear a mask in public, and have their temperature measured when entering all public buildings in Shanghai. Anyone refusing to comply will not be allowed to enter airports, railway stations, long-distance coach stations, hospitals, malls, supermarkets, or to travel on public transport.

Steve, Liv and, I experienced this yesterday when we decided to go out for lunch. We found our local wonton soup restaurant shut. We walked on thinking we would find something open close by, but after walking for nine blocks, the only place we could find open was Aldi. Again our temperature was taken to allow us entry.

Today we walked the eight blocks to Starbucks again. Before entering the store, we had our temperatures checked. We ordered our coffees and were then ushered outside to wait for the order to be filled. No one was seated inside. All the tables and chairs had been removed from the courtyard to stop people from congregating in the area.

After receiving our coffees, we noticed staff inside the store spraying disinfectant in the air, on countertops, the floor, and the interior and exterior glass and handles of the door. They were taking no chances!

With the extended holiday period ending today, the city will experience an influx of people this week as many have to return to work. Just before the weekend, more than a million people arrived at Hongqiao railway station in as little as 48 hours.

Every person entering the city, either by train, plane, bus, or car, must submit to a fever check and declare details of their travels. The Shanghai Municipal Council are doing their best to ensure they stop the spread of the virus and protect the public. The human resources this security effort requires is unimaginable.

Surgical and respirator masks have been a hot commodity for weeks now. Only days into the outbreak, price gouging, and the sale of fakes became an issue. There were even videos circulating social media showing people plucking used masks out of the garbage to be re-sold. Yes, gross! Notices were issued instructing everyone to cut up their used face-masks, before disposing of them.

As a result, the government took swift action and instructed the removal of all masks from sale in shops and pharmacies. Households can now register with their compound security to receive a weekly allowance of surgical masks, ensuring everyone in the city has access to a supply.

During our walks, we encounter so few people in the streets. On Saturday, I noticed two (possibly shady looking) guys standing on a street corner, one of which looked like he was holding three medium sized bags of something white. I immediately thought how brazen they were to conduct a drug deal on the street in broad daylight. And in China with so many cameras around!

They appeared to be unfazed as we approached, and I realized the guy wasn’t selling drugs, he was selling surgical masks. It was a deal going down as I’d thought, just a different type of commodity.

A lot of you are asking about the grocery situation. Other than the initial delays over the Chinese New Year period, we have had no issue getting groceries. Yes, the fresh produce runs low if you go later in the day, but this is more an excess stock storage issue, rather than a lack of supply. Instant noodles are another product that appears to be missing off shelves in most shops.

People’s buying habits have dramatically changed over the last few weeks. Where we would usually buy fresh produce daily for our meals, we and most others are stocking up for a week. People are leaving their homes as little as possible.

We are by no means doing it tough! We are still able to get groceries, chilled wine, spirits, cheese, charcuterie, coffee, cake, pastries, and pet food delivered to us in under an hour from all over Shanghai.

Steve’s work situation, however, is dismal. No flights. Fear of public places. No travellers. No guests. The hotels are feeling it. Steve has taken leave this week. We can only hope business picks up again soon!

Schools across Shanghai will remain closed until the beginning of March. Liv started home learning last week, giving us focus and a welcome distraction each day. The hardest thing we have to deal with is getting Liv to focus on her school work, with the TV and all her toys in close proximity!

The cold and rainy weather this week gave us even more reason to stay indoors. When we do go out, the empty streets make for pleasant walks, and Liv can ride her bicycle down the footpath or the middle of the road with no worries.

Compared to what everyone in Hubei province is dealing with, we really only have first world problems to complain about! We are doing well and enjoying family time together.

Thank you so much for all your messages over the last few weeks. It is comforting to know we are in your thoughts.

Sarah xxx